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Thinking about modifying (notching) a cam cover to clear the heater core...
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Author Topic: Thinking about modifying (notching) a cam cover to clear the heater core...  (Read 7398 times)

Offline Cebby

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I need to do another test fit, but if memory serves, my passenger cam cover was interfereing with the heater core bump in the firewall (slightly).  This was keeping the motor from being as far back as I'd like.  I think modifying one of the covers slightly will allow the motor to go back further while being slightly higher - thus making the oilpan mods less severe.

Time for another trial fit to see...
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Offline Smitherz

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Take a picture when you do a fit. Modifying the covers I'm thinking of sounds like a pain in the butt! I was thinking that if I had to do any mods to get my engine in I would love to push it back some. I've seen a couple pictures of people who really cut out the firewall and shoved it back a good amount. But me keeping my 4wd this would be too extreme. I just need to put mine in to make it fit so that it mates up exactly where the transmission is now.
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Offline Cebby

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I had a different picture in my head than reality.  The end of the cam would have to be removed....umm, not gonna happen...

Do you have your dash out?  I'm wondering how much room is between the heater core and the firewall.  Looks like it's time to gut the Runner...
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Offline 91_4x4runner

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Pics pics pics!
91 4Runner
78 280Z
92 SC400

Offline Cebby

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Offline Smitherz

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Hmm I wouldn't bet on there being too much room. The dash is packed with A/C and Heater stuff under there. Toyota did a great job cramming all that stuff under there so well that I don't even want to touch it. I wanna keep all that stuff functional and moving the engine means moving all the transfercase and everything with it. Way too much hassle for my street machine. If I was making a dirt only truck I wouldn't care but I will be doing some snowboarding trips with mine. I need that heater running perfectly.  8)

I've been all under my dash running lots of stereo stuff and some aux switches. It's packed, secure and doesn't rattle one bit. I choose to keep it that way.
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Offline ice_spy

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OK heres what options i had.
keep the firewall, aircon/ heater box in its original place and move the engine forward, delete aircon box and just run heater, modify heater /aircon box mounts back from firewall (didnt look too far into that idea).grind or modify head.(not possible). muck around with changing gear box mounts and shaft lenghts (more time and money).
 Well i bashed in my firewall a little, didnt give me much before it hit the aircon box. have to cover it up with some heat shield so it doesnt look touched/messy and will benfit heat protection from the bay. removed the aircon box and replaced this section with a non aircon model, gave me all the clearance i needed. But now no aircon. but mine needed money spent on my aircon anyway.
 Didint want to mount my thermo fan/s on the front of the radiator because i now have an oil cooler hooked into the motor, but mostly i didnt want a bees dick amount of clearance between my radiator and pulleys. Didnt want all the weight ratios changed with an engine too far forward. However i later found out that the 1uzfe is only slightly heavier than a 4cyc cast iron block!
 Anyways i thought my truck was too weighted in the front anyway without putting an engine in it that was never meant to be there.
 So you dont have many choice's and i guess it really depends on your bellhousing adapter, being custom, marks or delow. maybe some others available but i dont know of any more. I used delow because the marks, (if you keep your box in its original position) places your motor way too far forward in my opion.
 I went straight of my gearbox mounts and only had to elongate the holes 5mm.
with a 3" body lift things were a little easier i think too, for firewall clearances. Also i was able to mount my engine high to retain stock headers. This meant i had to raise my gearbox up 20mm to correct the angle of my front shaft and leave the oil pan at the correct angle for drainage to the pick up. But this will also allow me to make a custom crossmember to raise the gearbox 20mm and - 50mm from the factory c.member. All up will have 70mm higher clearance as this is a real hang up point for rough terrain. It just sits on 20mm blocks for now with longer bolts that go through them.  Hope this helps anyone as i had my engine in and out about 50 times clearing this clearing that, checking this checking that. You will get sick of pulling it in and out after the 10th time, believe me.
88 4runner, 84 solid diff rail, ARB 2" susp.,ARB front whinch bar, SAFARI snorkle, custom rear bar, 3"body lift, 8"CSA mags, BFG' 32"s, and of course 1UZ-FE !

Offline Cebby

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You will get sick of pulling it in and out after the 10th time, believe me.

I was sick of it on #4...   ;D
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