Motor Mount Drawings available for Download!

[Cebby]

A special thanks to Muzza_NZ over on Lextreme for sharing these files with us!

Muzz sent this message along with it:

here are the cadded engine mounts (my ute is a '95 2wd). I would probably build them out of stiff cardboard first to make sure that they fit your application (esp if yours is post '97). My aim was to keep the engine as low and far back as possible, and I've seen other hilux/1UZ conversions that have gone high and forward - in those (ones with front sumps in particular) they've made longer ones and mine haven't worked - if you have a rear sump you may not have to change anything.

So the message is, use these drawings for the engine side and frame side plates - the angled pieces may or may nto work for your application.

Here's are links for downloading Muzz's drawings (various formats):

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad 2000 DWG

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad 2004 DWG

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad R12 DXF

Muzza's Engine Mounts - 1:40 scale PDF (fits 8.5x11/A4 paper)

[Cebby]

Please use these as a starting point.  Apparently they are not perfect according to at least one person who has built them.

I'll be doing mine soon and will make any revisions needed.

[ice_spy]

Do your mounts allow the use of the stock headers? And did you have to massage the fire wall with a big hammer?

[ice_spy]

Heres a neat trick if you dont want to use Cebbys awesome c.a.d. drawn mount plans. Althought using his design will help greatly in fabricating some custom mounts, if you were just to change a few dimensions like hight etc. And copy his mounting plates as these will save you alot of time.
  First i made a plate that bolts to your engine block, then i made a plate that bolts to your exsisting chassies mounts. Bolt these on.
  I then dummied the engine into position with the 1uz bolted up to my bellhousing with the gearbox on. Making 100% sure that all clearances were correct, angle and hieght and most important the engine and driveline was centered.
You may need to use wood blocks in certain areas to hold your engine in your desired location.

  Then here comes my little trick, Steel some playdo from your kids (or buy from a shop if you dont have any), Then carefully jam the playdo in between the 2 plates working the playdo onto the 2 plates and shaping it into a neat block.
 CAREFULLY remove your engine (you may need a block & tackle to lift your engine directly up) lift just enough to CAREFULLY remove the playdo without disforming it.
 
  And there have it ! Instant moulds for measurments for your metal sections to bolt between your engine and chassie mounts!
You may also be able to use clay, that will set hard so there is no chance of the mould moving.
 You may think im crazy, but this saved me many many hours trying to make measurments, little wooden angled chocks, cardboard dummies, i was going nuts trying to work out how i will get it exact.

[ice_spy]

these are links to my pics of sump and mounts. Sorry cebby havent worked out yet why i cant upload still, feel free to post for me please.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/1uz-feinmytruck007.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/1uz-feinmytruck006.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/1uz-feinmytruck005.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t156/ice_spy/1uz-feinmytruck004.jpg

[toylexus]

The last picture you have posted - 004.jpg - is that the left side of the engine? (your passenger side, my driver side?) If that's the case, did you move your engine/transmission back as a whole from it's original location?

[ice_spy]

With the Delow bellhousing i had to massage the firewall a little, then i as able to go straight off the gearbox crossmember in its original position, however i did have to elongate the holes just slightly (4-5mm) to make it bolt back up to its original position. Also i used some 10mm plates to raise the box up, by 20mm (2 lots of plates) 4 in total, 2 either side of the gearbox mount locating bolt. i drilled through these plates so i then installed longer bolts that now go through the plates and into the gearbox mount. (i will post a pic soon)  the picture of the mount is yes, on my passenger side, your drivers side.

[toylexus]

so you've got that thing stabbed pretty far back in the engine bay then? i did a test fit on my engine and found that the engine looks to be sitting about the same distance past the chassis mount as yours is sitting behind the chassis mount. i don't know if that makes any sense. mine is just a little too far forward for comfort right now.

[toylexus]

Here's my issue with clearance at the back.




Here's my issue with clearance up front.




My goal is move the powertrain back 3 inches at this point. That would bring the engine oil pan away from the centerlink, the left valve cover back from the steering intermediate shaft, and of course the front of the engine away from the radiator support.




This is where the transfer case bolts onto the crossmember......




......the mount on the transfer case......




......and the first half of the adapter plate i'm working on to stretch the transfer case (and everything else) back 3 inches.


i was only able to get as far as drilling the holes in the steel and making sure it lined up with the mount on the transfer case on saturday. My next move is to measure down 3 inches from where i drilled and do it again to relocate the transfer case downstream from the crossmember. i know that 1/4" steel probably isn't enough to support the back of the transmission/transfer case. i'm sure i'll have to make some supporting structure for the rest of this plate to make sure it stays put. More to come.........

[freddy4runner]

A special thanks to Muzza_NZ over on Lextreme for sharing these files with us!

Muzz sent this message along with it:

here are the cadded engine mounts (my ute is a '95 2wd). I would probably build them out of stiff cardboard first to make sure that they fit your application (esp if yours is post '97). My aim was to keep the engine as low and far back as possible, and I've seen other hilux/1UZ conversions that have gone high and forward - in those (ones with front sumps in particular) they've made longer ones and mine haven't worked - if you have a rear sump you may not have to change anything.

So the message is, use these drawings for the engine side and frame side plates - the angled pieces may or may nto work for your application.

Here's are links for downloading Muzz's drawings (various formats):

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad 2000 DWG

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad 2004 DWG

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad R12 DXF

Muzza's Engine Mounts - 1:40 scale PDF (fits 8.5x11/A4 paper)

Hey cebby. can you tell me if twisty used any of these mount designs in his 4runner?

[Cebby]

I believe Twisty's was done before these drawings were conceived.  Note these are a starting point and might need to be tweaked a bit for your application.

My powdercoat parts will be back next week I think, so I'll be back at it!! 

[freddy4runner]

Looks like your truck is starting to take shape. can't wait to see it when it's finished. My project is still in the research stage, and saving money for the task ahead. I'm going to buy all my parts before I start to make the turn around time quicker. Dellow automotive is a 20 minute drive for me so the bellhousing and the like wont be a problem. just need to sort the mounts out when I have everything.
Thais site is great for someone just starting out. so many idea's have come from these pages..

[toylexus]

Small progress update..... i finished drilling the holes in the steel plate tonight. Here's the pic:





The side with the large hole in the middle will bolt to the transfer case, and the other side will bolt to the crossmember. The plate won't actually be that big...i'm going to have to cut off some of the edges to make it fit.

[toylexus]

And another small update... i managed to cut the plate out tonight. i know it's not pretty, but i don't think very many people will see it. It is also not finished yet. i will need to reinforce it once i verify it fits.




Width......




....and length.

[toylexus]

Mikronized came over today and helped me get the extension plate installed on the transfer case/crossmember. i think in my excitement of it actually fitting i didn't take pictures of the revised clearances of the oil pan-to-center link or the steering intermediate shaft-to-left (driver side) valve cover clearance. i'll get those pictures this week and post. Check out my new clearances at the front at back, before and after:




Engine-to-radiator support clearance BEFORE




Engine-to-radiator support clearance AFTER




Engine-to-firewall clearance BEFORE




Engine-to-firewall clearance AFTER




Back left valve cover-to-firewall clearance. BEFORE. Note the stud that the end of the tape measure is touching.....




......is missing in this AFTER picture. Come to find out that the parking brake handle bolts on right there. i removed the parking brake handle to get the engine to fit. That stud is going to get cut off. The parking brake will still function as it has another bolt next to it that doesn't interfere, and two below the steering column that hold it securely.




Here's the inside view of the park brake handle. The gold bolt on the left is good where it is. The round flat black stud on the right is going to get cut off and then the park brake handle will be reinstalled.




This is the plate that made it possible. The 4 empty holes bolted onto the cross member, which i forgot to take a picture of.




i also got a beta-test fit of the radiator in!








With this installation, we also found that the rear driveline didn't have enough travel to compress 3 inches. That came off and consequently will have to be shortened probably an inch to an inch and a half. The opposite goes for the front driveline- it stretched out far enough to see the splines. i think that can be remedied a little easier than the rear driveline.