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Show Posts - Cebby
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A saw a post on Pirate that had a suggestion for a spreadsheet for what works, what doesn't, what's desirable, what's needed, etc..  It got me thinking that we should have  a sticky that we can all add to with this type of info...  So here it is - add any pertinent info here that you'd like to share.

Sourcing your UZ Engine and Compatibilty Issues / 1UZFE Engine Dimensions
« on: November 01, 2006, 11:05:44 AM »
These images were provided by striker over on Lextreme.

Categories can be collapsed.
The minus sign next to the names of the categories can be pressed to collapse the group.  If you are only interested in the Tech area,you can collapse the three other categories to make the front page smaller.  This is handled by cookies/username, so it is tailored by you, for you.

Spell checker
The software has a built in spell check.  It isn't obtrusive - meaning that it doesn't force you to use it.  I only use it sometimes, so you'll still see some odd stuff coming from me...

Alot of text ornamentaton.
Try out some of the icons in your reply window.  They have many more features than a vB forum.

Smilies - OK, they sort of stink...
The smilies that come with the software is pretty lame.  I need to upload some new ones - will do that as soom as possible.

Transfer Cases / Guide to Identifying Toyota transfer cases
« on: October 23, 2006, 08:05:12 AM »
Here is great info to identify the numerous Toyota transfer cases that have been available over the years:

Type 1-A Carb 4Cyl

Installed 1979 - 1980
Top Shift
Short Style Case
8 or 9 mm Flange Bolts
Noisy Style Gears
21 Spline Input
Over Sized Input Spline

Type 1-B Carb 4Cyl

Installed 1981 - 4/1983
Top Shift
Short Style Case
8mm Flange Bolts
Noisy Style Gears
21 Spline Input

Type 1-C Carb 4Cyl

Installed 4/1983 - 8/1983
Top Shift
Tall Style Case
8mm Flange Bolts
Noisy Style Gears
21 Spline Input

Type 2-A Carb 4Cyl
Installed 8/1983 to 4/1984
Forward Shift, 4.5" Offset
Shifter Block Off Plate
Tall Case
10mm Flange Bolts
Quite Run Gear without plate
No Bearing Retainer Clip
21 Spline Input

Type 2-B Carb 4Cyl

Installed 4/1984 - 8/1988
Forward Shift, 4.5" offset
Shifter Block Off Plate
Tall Style Case
10mm Flange Bolts
Quite Run Gears
With Bearing Retainer Clip
21 Spline Input

Type 3 EFI 4Cyl

Installed 1985 - 1988 EFI Pickup
Installed 1985 - 1989 EFI 4Runner
Top Shift
Tall Style Case
10mm Flange Bolts
Quite Run Gears
With Bearing Retainer Clip
21 Spline Input

Type 4 Turbo 4Cyl

Installed 1986 - 1987
Tall Style Case
10mm Front Flange Bolts
Quite Run Gears
With Bearing Retainer Clip
Same Shift Rods as Type II Case
23 Spline Input

Type 5 PTO 4Cyl
Top or Forward Shift
Quite Run Gears
10mm Flange Bolts
With Bearing Retainer Clip
21 Spline Input

Type 6-A

1989-1991 pickup & 1990-1991 4Runner
Tall Case
Forward Shift, 4" Offset
10mm Flange Bolts
Quite Run Gears
Block Off Plate
Mechanical Speedo Cable Drive

Type 6-B

Installed 1992-1995 pickup, 1992-1993 4Runner
Tall Case
Forward Shift, 4" Offset
10mm Flange Bolts
Quite Run Gears
Block Off Plate
No Flat Washers on Case Bolts
Electrical Speedo Cable Drive

Info provided by Marlin Crawler

A special thanks to Muzza_NZ over on Lextreme for sharing these files with us!

Muzz sent this message along with it:

Quote from: Muzz
here are the cadded engine mounts (my ute is a '95 2wd). I would probably build them out of stiff cardboard first to make sure that they fit your application (esp if yours is post '97). My aim was to keep the engine as low and far back as possible, and I've seen other hilux/1UZ conversions that have gone high and forward - in those (ones with front sumps in particular) they've made longer ones and mine haven't worked - if you have a rear sump you may not have to change anything.

So the message is, use these drawings for the engine side and frame side plates - the angled pieces may or may nto work for your application.

Here's are links for downloading Muzz's drawings (various formats):

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad 2000 DWG

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad 2004 DWG

Muzza's Engine Mounts - Autocad R12 DXF

Muzza's Engine Mounts - 1:40 scale PDF (fits 8.5x11/A4 paper)

Thanks to Mudman over on Lextreme for putting these drawings together.  Feel free to download these for your personal use.

Special thanks to Mudman for providing CAD drawings of 1UZ header flanges.  You can take these drawings to either a waterjet cutter or CNC laser cutter for them to cut these out for you.  Mudman provided AutoCAD 2000 drawings in metric.  I've converted this drawing to 2004 DWG, R12 DXF and printed a 1:50 PDF.  I also converted the metric drawing to decimal inches and provided the same file formats.

Mudman used 10mm plate (3/8") for his flanges.  Click here  to see his buildup.  Posts about the headers start at post #23.

Right click and "Save Link As" on the links below...

*And now, the CYA:  Use these at your own risk.  There are no guarantees neither expressed nor implied as to the accuracy of this information.  These drawings cannot be sold for profit.

Announcements and Tips / Links added to the Links directory
« on: October 23, 2006, 07:28:25 AM »
Have a browse through the links directory (See tab above).

If you have a valuable resource for anything UZ related, please submit a link and description!

Thanks for looking...

Announcements and Tips / MOVED: Introduce yourself!!
« on: October 23, 2006, 07:26:17 AM »

Site Feedback / Links and Gallery - Grey on grey text hard to read
« on: October 23, 2006, 07:05:22 AM »
I know about this one...  I'm working on figuring out what I have to change to fix that. 

This is my buildup thread from another site - I'll add all the info here, but plan to also split out the info specific to our UZ Tech Section.

This process started in March 2005 with my 2nd HG checking out...

Many of you know me from over at Yotatech  where I've chroniclled my engine swap progress.  I recently reconstructed all the information for one of the sites I frequent due to them losing all of their data, so I thought it might be a good time to put something together here. 

The specs:  1993 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 Auto 4x4

Here's the victim when the 3.0 V6 let go...

I weighed the option of rebuilding vs. swapping and came to the realization that throwing more money at the 3.0 V6 (3VZE) aka Toyota's worst engine didn't make sense long term.  My plan was to keep this rig and slowly transform it into a real offroad performer.

My goal with the engine swap was to net out at $2000 or under after selling off what wasn't used.

I started with the selection of motor.  Many have done the 3.4 V6 (5VZE) so that was a possibility.  Another popular swap is the 3.0 I6 (7MGE or 7MGTE), but in Pennsylvania, you can't swap in an engine from an older vehicle.  The successor to the 7M motors are the 2JZ series of motors, commonly found in Lexus SC300, GS300, IS300 and the latest Supra.  These motors held promise, but the length of the motors concerned me.  Also, these motors seemed to be budget busters for my project.

I had learned about a swap pioneered "down under" in Australia and New Zealand that really intrigued me.  They love their Toyota's down there and have had access to the Toyota 4.0 V8 (1UZFE) for quite some time.  This motor is available in the U.S. in Lexus LS400, SC400, and GS400's.  These motors are also plentiful on the used Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) and are imported into the U.S. when they are at 50K miles or under.  This is the route I decided to pursue.  This motor is an extraordinary package:  4 cams, 32 valves, 6 bolt mains, forged internals, aluminum block and heads and it looks good too.

You can read about more swaps over at Lextreme

Since I was doing this swap, there were other "might as wells" that have come into play.  Mainly, since I was changing the position of the motor and some driveshaft alterations were likely, it seemed a good time to explore installing a crawler.  I had already purchased two gear driven cases for this purpose, so all that was left was to contact Marlin Crawler .

To add crawler gears, the tranmission needed to be swapped out (I planned to retain an auto).  The quest began to figure out what would work with the 1UZFE.  After some research and buying various parts to check them out, I have settled on a A340F out of a 2000 4Runner Limited.  The only modifications I plan to make initially are just for compatibility.  Through this process, I have acquired a complete LS400 auto trans and also parts from a Tundra automatic (bellhousing, oil pump and torque converter).  It appears that the Tundra TC is a great deal heavier and slightly deeper.  The Tundra TC should be the ticket to longevity of this trans setup.

So, the final config I've arrived at is:

1UZFE V8 | Tundra BH/TC/Oil Pump | A341E LS400 Trans Input & Planetary setup | 2000 4Runner A340F | Marlin Auto Adapter plate and Coupler | 1st Tcase with 2.28 gears | MC07 adapter | 2nd Tcase with 4.7 gears

For the time being, the independent front suspension (IFS) will remain.  As funds allow, a solid axle will be swapped (SAS) under the front end.

For those of you not familiar...

JDM = Japanese Domestic Market

When referring to auto parts, this means they were origianlly intended for use in Japan.  For engines, this is a good thing.  Most engines imported from Japan are either removed from wrecks in salvage yards (as in the U.S.), or removed from vehicles turned in due to excessive government taxes.

The Japanese government encourages its citizens to purchase new vehicles in order to stimulate new car sales and promote overall economic growth in Japan. The Japanese government creates tax schedules that make it increasingly difficult to justify used car ownership. This explains the high turnover and Japanese “Take-Out” engines exported to other countries. The used engine business in Japan is characterized by many salvage yards and holding yards, stocking engines either inside warehouses or out in the elements.

Since mileage verification is difficult to obtain once the engine has been pulled, the process of selecting desired engines is difficult.  It pays to work with a reputable importer who have their own contacts in Japan.  Thse contacts generally have "connections" to assure they are getting good engines.

There are a number of good importers of these engines.  Aside from these folks listed below, there is always eBay (if persuing eBay, check the feedback!!)

Motorworks of NY
Jarco Inc.
JSA Motors
ASAP Motors

There are many more out there, but few carry the 1UZ as a stock item - the above companies do.

I was pretty happy with the experience I had with Motorworks of NY.  I used a buy-it-now on eBay to purchase my 1UZ.  The cost was $1000 to my door ($850 for the motor and $150 shipping).

Mine is a JDM variant (JDM stands for Japanese Domestic Market) which means it came over on a container after being pulled from a vehicle in Japan..  I has a sticker on it that claims the equivalent of about 30,000 miles on the motor.  I did this deal before I knew about what to ask for and other parts that I would need.  I feel confident that these guys would do everything they could to provide all the parts asked for.  My motor came without any accessories - no PS pump, AC pump, or alternator.  Let's not forget the AFM (air flow meter),  ignitors (which I still need BTW), ECU and an uncut harness.

After pulling the cam covers, oilpan, water pump and other various parts, I can say with some certainty that this motor is in like-new condition.  Definitely worth the bucks.  The only thing that could have made it better was having all the  accessories...

Announcements and Tips / OK, let's try this rebuilt!
« on: October 20, 2006, 09:44:41 PM »
Those of you that were registered in the last day will need to re-register.  Sorry for the inconvenience.

We had a problem when moving the forum that ended up corrupting the database - so we got to start from scratch again.  Fortunately, I was the only one who had posted a lot so far (transferred my swap thread over).

The features:

Useful links directory.  This will be added to over time with resources.


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