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Messages - Chewy

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1
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: October 02, 2014, 09:53:33 PM »
Figured I'd post an update while here...

Truck is still running great.  ZERO issues at all.  The oil leak I was experiencing before turned out to be predominately from an uneven oil pan lip (it was bent).  Once I replaced the LS400 set up with a Tundra setup, it was perfect.

I'm coming up on 60K after installing the 1UZ so time to start thinking about the maintenance check-up.  Not looking forward to the timing belt as it will require removing the radiator, fan, bumper, etc...LOTS of time I have none of anymore.  I actually was going to take it into town and have a shop do the work but after calling around last year to ask about changing the front crank seal, I was unpleasantly surprised to hear repeatedly from shops "oh its a modified vehicle?  Yeah sorry, we won't work on it."  :-/  I know it just a CYA liability thing, but come on...

But anyway, it's STILL the best mod I've done to my 4Runner!!

2
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: October 02, 2014, 09:41:12 PM »
Good to see this site is back online but wow...it feels like I'm walking through an abandoned town after a nuclear blast!  Hellllo?  Anybody?  Cebby?  ;-)

did you do a body lift on this swap?
Yes sir, I used a 1" body lift with this swap.  Not entirely sure it was necessary but it was nice to have the extra room!

3
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 1uzfe Into 98 4runner
« on: October 02, 2014, 09:26:25 PM »
Haven't been on this site in ages.  Any progress on this?  :-)

4
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 1UZ-FE for my Taco
« on: March 06, 2010, 02:21:37 PM »
That's so awesome!!!  Man, I'll bet that thing is so fun to drive now!  Congrats Smitherz, I know it was a long time coming!!!   :D

5
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: March 06, 2010, 02:20:32 PM »
Hey fellas,
Wow, it's awesome to see other guys getting closer/completing their swaps!  It's worth it in the end!  Anyway, here's my periodic update...

The truck runs great!  As I've said before, this was the best mod I've ever done!!  But nothing is ever absolutely perfect as I'm sure you guys know!  Here are some issue that have been ongoing after logging ~10K miles post-swap...

Exhaust:  I went with compression-bent, 2.5" piping from the manifolds back, into two Magnaflow cats, then into a dual-in/single-out Flowmaster SUV 50 muffler, with a 3" tailpipe.  It worked great until I eventually got used to the new sound of the engine, then I heard it...the drone.  I would be cruising around 2K RPM/65 MPH and the engine/exhaust would be SOOOO drone-y inside the cab.  I mean to the point of not being able to hear someone speak!!  I dealt with it for awhile since I was rarely was driving in that regime, except for a few miles on the freeway each day.  Anyway, I finally decided to do something about it and redid all the floor insulation.  I laid down some Damplifier Pro from Second Skin Audio, followed by 8# carpet padding from Home Depot.  In the front, I added a thermal blanket in between the Damplifier and padding.  "That should do it!" I thought.  Not quite.  Although muffled, the drone was still loud & annoying.  So I decided to move to the exhaust itself.  After a little bit of research on lextreme, most guys were installing 2.25" piping into their SC/LS400's.  That apparently was the magic number for the exhaust unless they were planning on super/turbo charging.  Anything bigger than that, and you got the drone.  So it seemed my 2.5/3" exhaust set up was a little too big for a naturally aspirated 1UZ.  Anyway, I took the 4Runner in and had the Flowmaster replaced with a 24" Magnaflow and had the 3" tailpipe replaced with 2.5".  It helped, but still the drone continues.  I considered replacing all the piping with 2.25, but that's just ALOT more money.  I think the next step is to install a resonator in-line in the tailpipe.  What do you guys think?  Anyone have similar problems with their exhaust set-up?

Oil Pan:  After investigating a leaking oil pan, it looked as though the custom pan I had built was a little too tight between the front differential and front cross member.  When I took the measurements for it, I failed to take into account the torquing of the engine under load and settling of the rubber in the motor mounts.  I'm sure the pan had been contacting the frame every time I gunned the engine.  So I replaced the custom set-up with a stock LS400 pan.  Here's where I found a new problem!  When I was originally fitting the 1UZ and taking measurements for the motor mounts, I had a pretty banged-up oil pan installed on the motor.  I didn't realize just how dented it was until I went to install a near new oil pan...it wouldn't fit!  The engine sits too low in the vehicle and a "normal" oil pan contacts the front cross member.  I'm either gonna have to make new motor mounts or install a spacer place somewhere to raise the motor in the engine bay, away from the cross member.

Oil Leaks :  I noticed this shortly after driving the car after the swap.  The seal on the black oil pan was leaking along with the front crankshaft seal.  After replacing the custom oil pan, the leak around the top went away.  But every morning I find a nice fresh oil spot on the driveway.  I've looked and looked and found both the front and rear crankshaft seals are leaking pretty bad.  I replaced the front seal when I rebuilt the engine but not the rear.  Plus I remember on the front seal, that I had a bitch of a time getting it to seat correctly.  Obviously it wasn't!

The last big issue I've been having is a near constant CEL with a code of P0420: "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)".  I keep resetting it but it comes back within 50-75 miles.  I've already replaced the front O2 sensors (they came with the motor) but I still get the same code.  My exhaust guy thinks it might be because the exhaust is flowing TOO well.  I don't seem to have any exhaust leaks so my next guess is to replace the cat on the left side.  You guys have any suggestions?

Anyway, that's about it for the update!  I think my next big project will be to buy another 1UZ and have it rebuilt professionally.  I replaced all the necessary seals, gaskets, etc before installation of this one, but it still leaks!  Plus, I want to go all out and have this thing ported & polished, etc.  Smitherz did it right from the beginning!   :)

6
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 1UZ-FE for my Taco
« on: November 18, 2009, 06:09:07 PM »
Smitherz

7
For Sale / Re: Rear-sump oil pan
« on: November 18, 2009, 06:07:39 PM »
Hmmm, couldn

8
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: November 18, 2009, 06:07:09 PM »
Do you have any updates on the mileage?

12 seems pretty lousey.....

I am looking into a 2UZ swap into a 3rd gen, would be hoping for 20's or so...?

20's is a lofty goal for something that has the aerodynamics of a brick (and nice and heavy too).  Not to mention, gearing and tire size (ie unsprung mass) are important factors in mileage.

If you can get 15-18, that would be outstanding.  I'm hoping for 15 or so since I'll have 35" BFG KM2's with 5.29's.

Here's an update on the MPG...
Every time I fill up, I put in 15 gallons.  With that, I'm getting about 280 miles on one tank.  So if my math is correct, that

9
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: November 18, 2009, 05:53:32 PM »
Hey guys,
Sorry I haven

10
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: July 21, 2009, 01:26:57 AM »
Hey fellas,
It's been waaaay too long since I've been on here!!!  I'm still trying to sort through all the boxes from my move, get used to the new job, etc.  I've had zero time to do anything these days!  Anyway, I'm trying to get back into the swing of things with the 4Runner.  She's been running great aside from leaking a little oil, namely around the entire oil pan seal and crankshaft seal.  One of my next big projects will be to go back to the stock set-up of the oil pick-up and pan.  I think a big reason why the pan is leaking is that when I designed the custom pan with the drop-down sump, I didn't allow enough room for the engine to torque under load.  Because of that, I'm sure the pan has been contacting the cross member every time the engine accelerates.  Nothing major, but maybe just enough to break the Right Stuff loose a little bit.  Next time I'll use Toyota FIPG...
 
Hey Wanted, welcome to the froum!  Here are some answers to your questions...
My donor engine and ECU were from a '97 and were already OBD-II.  (All 96+ vehicles had to comply with OBD-II regulations.)  This made the swap into a 98 4Runner a little easier.
 
As far as motor mounts go, you're gonna have to make some custom ones regardless of what type of truck you have (2WD/4WD).  That being said, I was lucky in that once I put the 1UZ exactly where I wanted it in the engine bay, the 4 holes on the motor centered up perfectly with the frame perches.  But again, I was doing a 2WD-to-4WD swap in conjunction with the engine swap so the position of the drivetrain wasn't a concern of mine (i.e. I was expecting to have driveshafts redone, new tranny crossmember welded in, etc.)  If you're starting with a 4WD and don't want to mess with moving the drivetrain forward or back, I still think the holes on the motor will still be pretty close to the stock frame perches.
 
If I were to redo the engine swap, I wouldn't bother with the custom oil pan.  I think you'd be fine with the stock one regardless if you're offroading or not.
 
I imagine the 2UZ would be pretty easy to swap into a truck, provided the dimensions of the motor are similar to the 1UZ.  If so, you could take an entire motor, tranny, and transfercase setup from '00 Tundra and swap it into a 3rd Gen.  That would be sweet.  But remember the 2UZ is a little heavier (iron block versus aluminum) and was designed for trucks & SUV's so it has more torque down low whereas the 1UZ was made for a luxury car so it's a little higher revving.  I still get a smile on my face when the RPMs get up around 5-6K and my 4Runner goes from 55 to 95 in a heartbeat!  ;D

Ok it's late and I'm off to bed.  Hope that helped!

11
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: May 12, 2009, 11:49:56 AM »
Power steering pump leaking??
Some people have had the pumps leak fluid and it drips directly in/onto the alternator.

I've made and fitted a small deflector under mine out of thin aluminum sheet.

That was one of the first things I checked!  :) The alternator checked out OK the three times I had it tested, so I was pretty certain it was something else.  Plus there was no visible sign of leaking from the PS pump.  I ended up replacing the alternator anyway, since it

12
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: May 06, 2009, 07:06:56 PM »
Intermittent problem maybe? Check that wiring over good. I JUST put new blade female connectors in an alternator plug for a friend (they are impossible to find) as it was bad quality from Chrysler to begin with. His clients car had charging problems as well and now runs good with new connectors in the alternator plug and new wire from it as well.  I'm just finishing up my engine wiring harness and tomorrow will be wiring up my alternator with the chassis wiring harness - exact same as yours. I'll let you know if I can think of anything else.
Yeah, it's weird.  Standing in Checker Auto, I was actually hoping the alternator would fail it's test.  At least that would be any easy fix!  ;) Having to poke around and inspect all the wires & connections is a total pain.  I took my time building the alternator wiring harness and I'm pretty sure it's not the culprit.  But that's what I hate about troubleshooting the electrical system...even a little moisture in the wrong place can do screwy things!

Anyway, I double checked the wiring today.  I couldn't find any obvious signs of burnt or chaffed wires.  I unscrewed the bolt that holds the alternator wire to the fuse box and checked that connection.  It had a tiny bit of corrosion on it, but nothing I would think make the alternator not charge the battery.  But then again, who knows. ::)

While not on your particular engine, I have had several Toyota alternators go out on me, and they all failed with the symptoms you are describing.  I had a 3.0 go intermittent like yours for 6 months.  Everytime I had it tested, it tested fine, but would fail periodically.  Drove me nuts, thinking I had a bad connection somewhere that I could never find.

It finally completely gave up in the heart of Yosemite.  I had to beg charging jumps from sympathetic folks all the way home everytime I drained the battery.  It finally tested bad that time.  I replaced it and never had another problem.

I bet that Lexus alternator isn't cheap.
A new alternator isn't horribly expensive...$134 at Checker.  Can't say I'm wild about the Autolite brand, but at least it has a lifetime warranty with 24 month roadside assistance.  Any of you guys have one of these suckers?   :)

Even though it passed all the tests, replacing the alternator is probably a good ounce of prevention!  I popped off the back of the alternator cover and inspected the brushes.  They looked good, but there's a bit of corrosion in lots of other little places (donor SC400 spent it's life in New York.)  So who knows when it'll finally quit for good!

13
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / HELP!!
« on: May 05, 2009, 09:37:41 PM »
Hey guys, gonna need some help with this one...

I was driving on the freeway last week and as I was pulling off, the Battery Discharge light came on.  When I came to a stop, it started flickering.  When I accelerated, it came on solid.  It continued to remain on for a few minutes then off, with an occasional flicker here and there.  Totally random.  Anyway, this continued all the way home.  But the next morning and for the rest of the week, it remained off.  I figured it was just a fluke.

So on Sunday, I was driving down the freeway and as I was pulling off the light came back on!  ::) Only this time, it remained on.  I drove another 30 miles to a friend's house and let the truck sit for the rest of the day.  I was thinking it might have been the high engine bay temperatures that was screwing up the alternator.  At the end of the day, I drove back home.  The light was still on the entire way.  I was able to drive for about 50 miles before the battery totally drained and the engine quit.  I had the truck towed back home.  Yesterday, I had the battery tested & re-charged.  It checked good, so I assumed the other possibility was the alternator.  I pulled it today and had it checked.  It too checked good.  :-\

So now I'm not sure what else to check.  All the fuses looked good and the wiring isn't loose or anything.  You guys have any suggestions?

14
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: May 05, 2009, 01:07:50 AM »
Fellas,
Well here's an update:

Cooling fan - As I wrote earlier, my Zirgo cooling fan died after about two weeks of use.  I was driving from Albuquerque to Tucson when it made an awful grinding noise then finally seized.  Well it's been several weeks now and the 4Runner is STILL without a fan!  :'(  I've been battling with Zirgo via the dealer I bought the fan from.  They tried sending me two replacement motors, both of which were the incorrect size.  I finally gave up and bought a 17" Hayden fan from a local Checker Auto.  It's supposedly only 2.5" thick, but the entire shroud is 2.5", not just around the motor and angled like most electric fan shrouds.  I tried fitting it in, but the edges wouldn't clear.  So back to square one.  I looked on-line and decided on a Spal fan, model #2049.  I ordered one from the-fan-man.com and hoping it will be here this week.

Despite the lack of a fan, the 1UZ has been keeping cool despite the 90+ degree weather here in Tucson.  The motor has gotten around 210* a few times, but once I turn on the heater, it cools down pretty quickly.  Driving on the freeway, the temps hold around 185*.

Last week I had the the AC reconnected.  Because the 4-cyl had the AC compressor on the passenger side, I had some custom hoses made to reconnect it to the AC system.  It works pretty well, but it doesn't blow as cold as before.  I'm sure it's because the condenser is not as efficient as it used to be...the radiator was moved closer to it and the increased cramped quarters in the engine bay limit the airflow.  On the freeway, the temps increased from 185* to about 190*.  I haven't really played around with it too much around town since I'm still missing the cooling fan.  My ultimate plan is to run a 16" fan as a puller and mount two 9" pushers in front.

I'll write more on the digital temp mod and my recent maintenance issues later...

15
'95.5-'04 Tacomas/'96-'02 4Runners (3rd Gen) / Re: 98 4Runner
« on: April 30, 2009, 12:03:19 AM »
Hey Guys,
Sorry it's been so long since I've been around.  I've been WAAAY busy trying to get settled in my new town, job, etc!  ::)

I've got a few things to report on, namely my on-going cooling fan drama, air conditioning re-install, and digital temp gauge modification.  Not to mention a few of Check Engine Lights that I've seen since the swap was completed.  :-\ A few of you have emailed asking for info on my swap...I promise I'll get back to you!!!  Anyway, I'm headed to Albuquerque tomorrow to finish some house work, but I'll be back in Tucson this weekend and try to write a little bit...

Smitherz:  The Taco looks fantastic!!!  Can't wait to hear that baby fire up!!  8)

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