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Topics - toylexus

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Misc Mods not listed / Lexus hydraulic fan pump/and fan pulley bracket

« on: June 17, 2009, 08:17:59 PM »

Just in case anyone was having a hard time trying to find one of these, (i can't find one used in the area i live) here's the info and pictures i used to obtain my setup. i found the bracket on ebay motors using the keywords "toyota tundra cooling fan pulley bracket". i couldn't find a pulley, so i went looking on the web and came across www.toyotapartscenter.net and found a pulley. i looked up a 2003 toyota tundra. The pulley is #12 in the illustration. In the catalog, it's under cooling system. The bracket by itself was $93.99 shipped (from ebay motors), and the pulley was $53.64 shipped (from toyota). i don't have pictures of it yet, but i did test fit the bracket on the engine yesterday and it slid right into place.

Here's the new bracket.

4.5" diameter approximately of new pulley.

4.5" diameter approximately of lexus fan pump pulley.

Comparison of old lexus fan pump assembly and new fan pulley bracket assembly.

Wiring and Electronics / Engine harness connector ID's -- 1994 4Runner/1995 SC400

« on: January 17, 2008, 01:02:30 AM »

This is the beginning of the ECU wiring of my project. What follows are ID's of connectors, followed by the picture of the actual connector itself. This may take a while to straighten everything out. i wanted to at least get the ID's posted. My goal in all of this is to allow the lexus side of the harness to be plug 'n' play with the toyota side of the harness. By splicing matching lexus circuits necessary for operation of the engine/gauges/etc into the identical circuits on the toyota IH1 and IH2 connectors cut from the toyota engine harness, i can make it a lot cleaner in the end, and maintain some degree of sanity in the event diagnosis is ever necessary of the wiring. Also note on the white pages that show the male and female connectors; sometimes instead of a number there will be an "X" or a black dot "*" symbol. The "X" means there is no wire in that cavity. The the black dot "*" (according to my source) says "occupied positions, but not applicable to the system circuit". Here goes.

This is the Toyota connector IH1, male and female sides.
-Pin 22: Black wire, function: Starter control B+
-Pin 14: Black w/Red wire, function: Ignition switched voltage to ignition coils, igniters, and injectors
-Pin 10: Black w/Green wire, function: ECU power (B+) from EFI FUSE
-Pin 16: White w/Red wire, function: B+ voltage from EFI RELAY- powers oxygen sensors, EGR valve, and fuel pump ECU pin 4
-Pin 3: Violet wire, function: MIL/ SES/ Check Engine light (whatever you want to call it)

IH1 connector-- this was cut from the original 3VZ-E engine harness.

This is the toyota connector IH2, male and female sides.
-Pin 14: Yellow w/green wire, function: Temperature gauge signal.
-Pin 11: Yellow w/blue wire, function: Oil pressure gauge signal.
-Pin 20: Black wire, function: Tachometer
-Pin 19: Green w/red wire, function: Speedometer

IH2 connector-- this was also cut from the original 3VZ-E engine harness.

Lexus ECU connector E12 B.

E12 B

Lexus ECU connector E11 A.

E11 A

Lexus EB1: This is one of the two primary connectors on the Lexus side that connect to the Toyota IH1/IH2 connectors in the wire splicing process.
-Pin 4: Black w/yellow wire, function: ECU B+ power from EFI fuse
-Pin 8: Black w/orange wire, function: EFI relay control - on/off

Lexus EB2: this is the second of the two primary Lexus connectors. This one pretty much holds the starter control circuit and the engine sensor/egr positive voltage circuits. Hopefully this one is self-explanatory.

Lexus connector IK1.
-Pin 9: Yellow w/green wire, function: Temp gauge signal
-Pin 20: Yellow w/black wire, function: Oil pressure gauge signal
-Pin 8: Black wire, function: Tachometer
-Pin 7: Blue w/red wire, function: Speedometer

IK1

Lexus connector IK2.
-Pin 9: Blue w/yellow wire, function: MIL/SES/Check Engine light (whatever you want to call it)

IK2

Lexus connector IJ1.
-Pins 3, 7: Black w/orange wire, function: B+ voltage to ignition coils, igniters, and injectors

IJ1

Lexus connector IJ2.
-Pin 11: Black w/orange wire, function: Ignition (B+) voltage from 7.5 Amp 'IGN' fuse to ECU

IJ2

Lexus connector II1.

II1- mine is broken, but seeing as how i don't have the other side, it doesn't really matter.

Lexus connector T12 B. This is one of two connectors that connect to the Lexus traction control ECU. Not used in this swap.

T12 B - This connector is in pretty bad shape on the backside.

Lexus connector T13 A. This is the second of two connectors for the traction control. Not used in this swap.

T13 A - This connector is also in bad shape on the backside.

This is the right lower passenger side kick panel area. The ECU lives down here. The gray connector is the male side of IH1, and the white connector is the male side of IH2. This is where all of the wires will come together and connect the toyota body to the lexus engine harness.

i'll try to post more info on the pins of the connectors that are important. Hopefully by the end of this week, i can post more shots of the lexus and toyota wiring being spliced together and the pins/wires/colors that were spliced.
i discovered during some research that the letter in front of each connector (IH1, EB2, etc) indicates its location in the vehicle. "E" is for the engine compartment, "I" is for the instrument panel and surrounding area, and "B" is for the body and surrounding area.

Toyota connector IH1 pin 14, Black w/Red - connected to Lexus pins 3 and 7, Black w/Orange. The circuit function is ignition coils, igniters, and fuel injectors.

Toyota connector IH1 pin 22, Black - connected to Lexus connector EB2 pin 1, Black. The circuit function is starter control B+.

This is the back of Lexus connector EB2 with the starter wire cut off. Since the harness with this connector comes off the left (driver) side valve cover, i cut it, spliced it, and ran a black wire over to the right side of the firewall and fed it through to the right kick panel with the rest of the wiring.

i will be using this type of butt connector during the swap. i highly recommend these. They are the heat-shrink type. After the butt connection is made, the ends are heated up. They shrink and seal the wire to the butt connector and have proven extremely reliable in other wiring repairs. Once they cool, the connection becomes very solid. The parts department where i work sells these at an insane markup, so i picked up some 25-packs at my local OSH hardware store for just under $10.

Exhaust, Cats and Mufflers / A few words on OBD II and smogchecks

« on: May 22, 2007, 11:31:31 PM »

i have some research i did recently on an OBDII concern that's been bouncing around in my head for a while. While the 1994 4WD 4runner/1995 Lexus SC400 project i'm working on is not subject to OBD II, i had mentioned in the transmission thread that a clean air class teacher of mine said an OBD II equipped vehicle (1996 or newer) would not fail a smog check for a transmission code. i need to clarify some of that based on a mock smog check i recently did on my own vehicle.

i had a vehicle come into the shop last week with a check engine light, or MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) and 5 transmission codes set. No engine DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes) were set. In that case, the ignition switch was not supplying voltage to the transmission shift solenoid fuse. (This is on a GMC envoy. I know it's not a toyota, but bear with me- this IS going somewhere). Since i have an '04 envoy as well, i decided to answer the question: Can transmission related codes cause a smog check failure?

The next day at lunch, i pulled the fuse for the shift solenoids and no more than 10 seconds later, my check engine light was on. i ran it through a training test (Don't quite have my license yet- soon, very soon). The tailpipe emissions passed. The visual inspection passed. The functional test (when you plug the OBD II connector from the machine into the car) failed because the malfunction indicator light was on. The machine didn't seem to care what the codes were- it just saw that the MIL was on. On a 1996 and newer car that's no good. i went a little further with the scan tool to find out what codes set. 3 codes- 1 was a TCC enable circuit, 1 was a shift solenoid circuit, and 1 was a TCC PWM circuit code. A 4th code set, but did not "request" the MIL. It actually indicated the fault in the ignition switch. All 3 of these codes "requested" the MIL. That means if the vehicle is 1996 or newer, it CAN fail a smog check simply because of a transmission code requesting the check engine light. Sorry for the pictures...couldn't get the scanner to work tonight.

These are the test results from my mock smog check. The OBD II functional test failed.

The smog machine saw the MIL was on, so that part of the test failed.

The machine will also display the codes that set. Note that the P1860 code doesn't have a description- Codes starting with a "P0" are generic codes, "P1" codes are manufacturer specific.

These are the codes i found with the scan tool, and the ones that actually requested the MIL. Note that the P1633 didn't even show up on the machine. i have no explanation for that other than it is not an emission related code.

....and the code descriptions. Again, the P1633 set as a result of me pulling the "IGN. 0" fuse to disable the transmission solenoids.

i hope this information helps. Another source of good information i've found and am still learning on myself is the california BAR website at: www.smogcheck.ca.gov

One more thing that i recently found out about that's coming down the pipeline for 1995 and older vehicles. This applies only to california vehicles as far as i know right now. Since 1995 and older vehicles don't monitor the fuel system for evaporative emissions leaks, california is mandating evaporative emission leak testing as part of the smog check for those vehicles beginning in November of 2007. The little machine that does this test is going to cost from $3000-$4000 that all the smog shops are going to have to buy. It sounds ridiculous to me and the reason given for this new test is that california will be getting a whole crapload of money from the government because we're striving to improve our air quality.
That makes me want to go off on a tangent now, but i think i'll hold my tongue and call it good for now.

Motor and Transmission Mounts / It's a new can of worms now!

« on: March 27, 2007, 12:55:18 AM »

This past saturday i spent some time at the shop. i told mikronized i would be doing some test fitting of the engine that day. He was in town this weekend so he came by to check out his baby.
i was able to set the engine into the toyota engine bay without too much trouble. i did have an issue with the oil filter adapter hitting power steering lines while trying to move the engine back towards the transmission. i did this test fit with the transmission installed to see where everything lies. It looks like the transmission may have to slide back a bit.
Also- the center link on this truck comes very very close to the front of the oil sump. There is also the issue of steering shaft-to-left engine valve cover clearance and exhaust manifold clearance. i didn't get a chance for any measurements, as it was a rush to get out of the shop as well. Even though it doesn't run and it will come out and go in a few more times.... that lexus engine looks like it belongs in there!

Lexus getting ready to meet Toyota for the first time

Going in!

Had some trouble clearing the oil filter adapter by the power steering lines.

This truck has a suspension lift that comes extremely close to the engine oil sump. Gonna have to shave it a little.

The steering shaft comes too close to the left side of the engine right now.

The center link is touching the oil pan.....

Right side of the engine- no exhaust manifold or mount installed. Note the EGR tube in back.

Left side of the engine- no exhaust manifold or mount.

More to come.....

Wiring and Electronics / Fuel pump ECU

« on: March 20, 2007, 02:19:44 PM »

I was looking through some engine control schematics for the 1995 Lexus SC400 engine I have for my swap and found something I haven't seen or heard of yet. Alldata calls it a fuel pump ECU. They also give a part number of 8957024010 and a price of $305.73. This is the first I'd seen anything like it. I didn't get one with my engine/transmission. Anyone else know about this?

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