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Messages - freddy4runner

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Wiring and Electronics / Deletion of air flow meter
« on: March 05, 2008, 05:03:38 AM »
Has anyone tried to delete the air flow meter from the stanard ecu setup?
Mine started playing up so I disconnected it and the truck goes much better only problem is the check light comes on and the idle is a bit irratic.

Is there a way it can be wired so the check light goes out and the idle improves?

Wiring and Electronics / Re: Fuel pump ECU
« on: March 05, 2008, 04:58:23 AM »
Hi Guys, I used the Fuel Pump ecu in my conversion and it works really well, there is only 5 wires to hook up and your done, you will need to splice it into the circuit opening relay wires, if you sit down and study the 2 factory wiring diagrams for the lexus and 4runner is pretty easy to work out. took me about 30 minutes to work out.

If I can find my diagram on the weekend I will post it for all to see

they should be ok, 90 and 91 models are basically the same, all depends on the plugs they use in the harness. there are a few different ones and they are unable to be plugged in at all, try the lextreme forum, a lot of times someone has a thread on ECU part numbers and plug configurations.

I usd a place called dellow automotive in sydney, it cost me AUD$1600 for all the parts required, bellhousing, full clutch kit and custom flywheel, basically everything I needed it that area.

Dellow will ship their products around the world too, The day I picked mine up they were sending the same to a guy in canada, not sure how much though. Here's a link to their web site

Talk to Jeff, he is the best guy to deal with.

Why don't you go the manual route mate, you don't need to wire anything up then and the R150f gearbox is way strong enough. you just cut the auto trans part of the loom off the rest and cap the power feeds.....Too easy.

I think it located in the boot somewhere, if you can go back through my post's, I put a picture up on here (for Cebby I think) that will give you an Idea what it looks like, My Truck is a manual so it was a fairly easy conversion

Make sure you get the fuel pump ECU if when you get your engine. I used the factory V6 fuel pump in the tank, wired it up in the kick panel near where the ECU fits and made a custom fuel line that runs from the tank to the crossmember behind across that and up the other rail and I relocated the fuel filter to the other side as well, works a treat!


Looks like your swap turned out nice.  Got any more tips on the wiring end of the swap?  I think that that's going to be the hardest part for me.(I'm no electrician.)

it has turned out very well but I still want to make some changes to the induction setup, I did a bit of playing about tonight and think I have figured it out, I'll put some pics up when I start, ( helps when you have a garage full of hilux parts )

Where abouts are you located? as I have some good leeds you can follow

I have a factory VZN130 wiring diagram book and I managed to get my hands on a 1992 soarer factory manual (my engine is from a UCF11 Celsior)and basically tried to marry everything up. wasn't easy but I managed to get the thing running and had someone else finish it off.

Are you still using the stock v6 radiator?

Yes I am, I have modified it slightly but not much, basically I had the necks on the top and bottom swapped to the other side and made a pipe that runs up from the bottom pipe so I could attach it to the engine, I have had no overheating issues at all, the 14" fan seems to cope very well.

Exhaust, Cats and Mufflers / Re: Best mufflers for a 1UZ
« on: February 10, 2008, 05:39:59 AM »
My muffler is that old I don't know what it is, I was thinking the same when the time comes to change the system, don't think you can go wrong

Exhaust, Cats and Mufflers / Re: a header alterative for 1uz's
« on: February 10, 2008, 05:36:04 AM »
I have trid to fit the celisor/soarer style manifolds to my truck, the left hand one (our passenger side) fit in there no problems but the drivers side one hit the steering shaft after a weekend trying to modify it I gave up and fitted the log style manifolds, they work well and fit nicely with no mods, I am curious about the landcruiser ones as they look like a larger style log, maybe something for the future.

Well it has been 6 months since I finished the conversion and I have no problems what so ever, the fuel consumption is exactly the same as when it was a V6, it has heaps more power and has turned a stock looking 4runner into a bit of a head turner.
I spent 3 hours at Boat harbour 4WD park in the suburb of Kurnell in Sydney's south. Most of the time was spent in 2WD and I thrashed the truck the whole time trying to break it, It really performed well, it did not overheat and nothing broke and to this date still hasn't.
This is a little video of the truck in the sand (sorry for the wind noise)

here are some pics of the product testing day

I'm planning a trip to stockton beach at easter so I sould get some good footage and pic there

Plans for the future I think will be a complete exhaust system change, thinking 2" dual and I think I will change the induction system setup as I feel it is a little restricted. But they may have to wait as I have an 84 4runner in the garage that has been taking up a lot of my time ( and money) so stay tuned for further developments

Hey Cebby, hows things Going with your build up? can't wait to see the finished product. Mine has been on the road for about 6 months and have not had any problems whatsoever, it the best thing I ever did. I've started a new project now, Turning a LN60 4runner into a short bed pick up ( they are very rare in Australia only 1979-1981 we had them )

hope all is going well mate

That looks awesome cebby, can't wait to see it in the engine bay........GOOD JOB!!!!

I have two questions for you; did you use the original fuel pump and fuel tank, and did you use the original radiator?

G'day Toylexus,
Yes I did use the original fuel tank and pump but I wired in the fuel pump control unit that came with the engine. this is much easier than trying to work out what signal to use to keep the circuit open relay on after startup as this was the job of the V6's flap type airflow meter. as for the radiator, it is a modified original. I moved the top and bottom necks to the oposite sides. the top one comes out of the left side and turns 90 degrees inward, the bottom one comes out at 90 degrees the same direction but has a upward tilt to it, attached to this is a small rubber hose then to a 40mm pipe that runs up the side of the radiator to a 90 degree bend pointing straight at the thermostat housing. I haven't had any overheating problems as yet but it only has been idling in the driveway and driven to the exhaust shop.

A word of advise, remove the temperature sender from the rear of the V6 ( it's the small one with one pin) and put it in the 1UZ(this one sits on the right front of the engine under the ignition lead cover), this way your gauge will read correctly as the have different resistances. I also did the same with the oil pressure switch.

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